That shift led Highfield on an educational journey that helped him hone a craft he would later share with the wider community. I did ceramics all through high school, and when we got to doing breads and things like that, it clicked.” Located at 5411 Lakeside Ave., the successful farmers market venture turned walk-up window bakery that debuted last weekend is the product of a nearly lifelong adoration of dough.Įntering culinary school right out of high school, the Lancaster, Pennsylvania, native says, “They didn’t even have baking I thought I wanted to be a chef. So small, in fact, that the veteran pastry chef met Sub Rosa Bakery owners Evin and Evrim Dogu years ago while opening Chelsea Bake House in Norfolk, both teams acquiring wood-fired ovens from the same maker.īut the small world of baking took on a whole new meaning when he opened Up All Night Bakery. For now, there is much to get out there and celebrate, even if we do so with masks on.“It’s a very small industry,” baker Jonathan Highfield says as he whizzes around the kitchen of his 450-square-foot space in Lakeside. And we'll get better at everything in time. Hopefully, every one of them will be back, and soon. These last few years, more and more towns, cities, and neighborhoods have been fortunate enough to discover this for themselves. Of course, there are the bakeries themselves, so often more than a place to buy bread, or cakes, or pies-at their best, they are focal points, touchstones, gathering places, improving the quality of life in their respective communities.
There’s more good stuff, too-a demand for in-house milling capabilities is putting even more makers to work, while a renewed focus on regional and heritage grains is helping smaller farms thrive, keeping more money local. Before all of this, and hopefully after, there was and will be the project based out of the important Bread Lab at Washington State University, challenging the industry to offer at least one simple, affordable, high-quality loaf to their customers, every single day.
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